Ca. 1930. Seventy-one loose gelatin silver photographs, including eighteen larger photos from ca. 12,5x17,5 cm (4 ¾ x 6 ¾ in) to ca. 10x17,5 cm (3 ¾ x 6 ¾ in), and fifty-three smaller photos from ca. 9,5x14 cm (3 ¾ x 5 ½ in) to ca. 5,5x7cm (2 ¼ x 2 ¾ in). All but six photos with period pencil numbers on verso; thirty-eight photos with period pencil captions in German on verso. At least twelve photos with period pencil notes on verso identifying the photographers: “Phot. H. Hoerlin” (or “Hoerlin”), “Phot. Erwin Schneider” (also “Schneider” or “Schn.”), “Phot. M. Kurz,” and “Phot. U. Wieland.” Three photos with period ink stamps “Prof. Dr. G.O. Dyhrenfurth, Zürich 8” or “Prof. Dr. Dyhrenfurth, Ringgenberg/Be” on verso. With two period envelopes for housing the photographs; one envelope with a manuscript ink note “Hoerlin. Dodang Peak. Dodang Range vom Zemu Unbegang.” Overall a very good collection of strong interesting images.

Historically significant collection of original photos taken during the 1930 International Himalaya Expedition around Kangchenjunga and north to the Jongsong and Dodang peaks on the Tibetan border. The expedition consisted of German, Swiss, Austrian and British alpine climbers under the lead of Günter Dyhrenfurth. They attempted to ascend previously unconquered Kangchenjunga from the north-west via the Kangchenjunga glacier but failed due to an avalanche which resulted in the death of one of their guides. Instead, the party completed the circuit of Kangchenjunga, crossing the Jongsong La pass, and climbed several nearby mountains, including Jongsong Peak (24,482 ft), Nepal Peak (23,560 ft), Ramthang Peak (23,310 ft), and Dodang Peak (22,700 ft). For about a year, the Jongsong Peak remained the highest climbed peak in the world. “In its topographical and geological work, the expedition has added considerably to the previously little known country at the head of the Lhonak Valley and in North-eastern Nepal. The western and north-western glaciers of Kangchenjunga were thoroughly explored, while Schneider and Wieland found a practicable route over the Nepal Gap and solving a problem that had interested mountaineers for many years. The Dodang Nyima Range, separating the Khonak Valley from Tibet, was also explored by Schneider and Hoerlin, who ascended its highest point, the 22,700 feet Dodang Peak, and traversed the Choten Nyima La” (Smythe, F.S. The Kangchenjunga Adventure. London, 1930, p. 429). The first successful ascent of Kangchenjunga didn’t happen before the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition.
The photos include various views of Kangchenjunga (the northwestern face, looking from the north, from the Jongsong glacier) and the surrounding peaks (the Twins, Kangbachen Peak, Nepal Peak, the Wedge Peak, the Pyramid Peak), Zemu glacier and Sugarloaf mountain taken from the Nepal Gap, Jongsong Peak and Jongsong La Pass, Langpo Chung Peak, Langpo Glacier, the Fluted Peak, Choten Nyima La mountain pass, Dodang Nyima mountain range taken from the Lhonak Tal, Goma valley, views taken from the Dodang Peak, etc. About a dozen photos show expedition camps – in the foothills and high mountains; the tents on two photos have visible printed signs of a Munich sports equipment company “Sporthaus Shuster.” Another dozen photos feature the expedition party and their Sherpas – departing Darjeeling in motor cars, trekking, climbing, training, posing in front of the vistas, etc. A large photo portrays two expedition members talking in a high-altitude camp. At least twelve photos have period pencil notes on verso identifying the photographers – expedition members Herman Hoerlin, Erwin Schneider, Marcel Kurz, and Uli Wieland. Overall a valuable original visual source from an early Himalaya mountaineering expedition. Although we didn’t have the chance to compare, but many photos from this collection were very likely used as illustrations for Dyhrenfurth’s account of the expedition “Himalaya. Unsere Expedition 1930” (Berlin, 1931).
Captions:
Large photos: “Kangbachen Peak (7902 m.) von N.;” “Lager am Nepal Gap;” “Kantsh.[enjunga] – NW-Sporn beim Aufstied zum Ramthang Peak. Phot. M. Kurz Nr. 102;” “Blick vom Nepal Gap auf Zemu gletscher mit Sugarloaf, 6440 m. Schn.[eider];” [A group of sherpas preparing cargo, captioned] “Schneider;” “Jorasse – Twins, 6880 m. u. 7112, Schn.[eider];” “Twins-Ostgipfel (7005 m) von N. Phot. Erwin Schneider. Copyright G.O. Dyhrenfurth, Ringgenberg/BE. “Bergsteiger,” Nov. 1964;” “Twins (7350 m), Kangchendzönga – Hauptgipfel (8579 m) und Westgipfel (ca. 8500 m) von N. Phot. U. Wieland;” “Lager um <…?> (5250 m). Phot. M. Kurz.”
Smaller photos: “Abfart Darjeeling. 9 4/30. Photo Hoerlin;” “Kangchendzönga;” “Kangchendzönga (8603 m) vom Ginsang Gletcher. Internationale Himalaya Expedition 1930 von Prof. Dyhrenfurth. Phot. H. Hoerlin;” “Nepal Peak, 7145 m.;” “The Pyramid (7123 m) von NNW. Phot. Dyhrenfurth expedition 1930;” “Wedge Peak;” “Wedge Peak, I.H.E. 1930;” “Wedge;” “Wedge – Jongsong La;” “Twins – Kantsch.[enjunga];” “Jongsang. Hoerlin;” “Langpo glacier. Hoerlin;” “Langpo Chang;” “Berge an der tibetanischen Grenze. Hoerlin;” “Anstieg zum Dodang. Blick nach Norden” (2 different views); “Kalkgiphel 6200;” “recht Langpo Pk, links Fluted Pk.;” “Aufstieg zum Choten Nyima La;” “Dodang – Nyima aus dem Lhonak Tal;” “Dodang – Panorama von Norden uber Westen nach Süden;” “Lager I der Dodang Tur <…> Zwischen unserem Lagercol (links) und Choten Nyima La (rechts);” “Dodang vom Lagercol;” “Lager I <…?>;” “Jongsong Pass;” “Goma;” “Goma <…>?;” “<…?> Gipfel,” etc.

Item #405

Price: $2,750.00 USD